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| Customer Comments |
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| Hey Bob,
I just want to say that you are probably one of the sharpest guys on this Forum, not knocking anyone else. It's just when it comes to Forced Induction and F-Bodies, you know your stuff. Anyway I just got the 3.00" pulley on and it is working great . I'm seeing a little more than a pound of boost increase. I't feels like I gained about another 30HP or so. Only one problem, I'm detecting some detonation right before redline ( popcorn ) . So I filled it up with VP Racing fuel 103 octane. No more detonation. But that's not the answer ( very expensive fix ). I wish you were local. Could use a good old fashion chassis dyno tune. You wouldn't be able to recommend a shop down my way, could you?
Well, anyway - thanks, Ron
-Ron from Florida |
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EPP's Jon Beam's 1995 Pontiac Formula with ATI ProCharger I had performed some bolt on mods through the years: K & N cold air kit, Hypertech power programmer, under-drive pulleys, 160 thermostat, Holley 52mm throttle-body, a de-screened MAF, and 4:10 gears. This upped the RWHP to 241 from the stock 190. Now that my brother and I started EPP, this has given me reason to give to that car what it deserves. For starters, any time you make power you have to get it to the ground. A 12 bolt Moser w/4:10 gear is going in as well as: Spohn torque arm, Spohn control arms, BMR panhard bar, Air Lift drag bags, The fuel system will consist of an Aeromotive A1000 pump and regulator. The voltage will be controlled by an Aeromotive 16302 fuel pump controller. Since you can’t sump these tanks because of the muffler that resides underneath, two – The exhaust is going to consist of Hooker long tubes with a Mufflex y-pipe. We have welded in extra bungs for wide band testing on the dyno. A Hooker cat back system will also be used, for now. By the way, no cats! The air pump and EGR valve will also be deleted. The engine this year will remain mostly stock except for the 52mm throttle-body. The only thing I haven’t mentioned is the 8lb ATI procharger that is currently being installed. We are going to run the P1SC this year and probably step up to the F1 next year. She will also have the twin high flow
The Hooker headers and Mufflex y-pipe are installed. The y-pipe fits great. Check out the front suspension, we had many parts coated in sterling by Jet Hot. It looks great. Once the y-pipe is welded up, it will be sent to Jet Hot as well as the cat-back system.
Check out this supercharger..
We have repainted the bottom of the car and now have the fuel system installed, the exhaust is complete, and the torque converter is in. All that is left is installing the rearend and wiring the battery in the back. She will be on the dyno soon! Here are the pictures of the fuel system and B&M's deep transmission pan. The area below the ash tray was cut out to make way for switches and wiring. With the ash tray lid closed you can't see the switch plate. The four switches will be used to arm the line lock, the MSD two step, the tranny brake, and to bypass the fuel pump controller. Launching the car will be accomplished by releasing the Dedenbear quick acting switch that was installed on the side of the console. 
Here is the size difference between the two converters. The Yank, in red, is a 10" and the Neil Chance is a 9.5". 
Here is the Mark Williams Duralcan driveshaft. We were going to use their carbon fiber, but we thought that the 3.75" driveshaft would be a little snug in the driveshaft loop. They build this Duralcan in both the 3.5" and 4.00", we opted for the 3.5". This shaft is good for 1300 horsepower so we shouldn't have a problem in this street car! 
The factory crossmember also had to be modified for the TH400. We welded in two pieces of 1" x 1.5" box tubing. With the computer back from Fastchip, the air/fuel ratio is now 11.9 to 12.00 across the board. This tranny/converter feels great, it will spin the slicks going into third at 60MPH!! On the dyno, the power is down to around 336, due in part to a non-lock up converter. I am showing 5.9% of converter slippage at 6000, which is pretty normal for a high stall race converter. If you take the 5.9% times the power that I had before of 357, this will account for the 21 horse loss. Next we ran a quarter mile time on the dyno and was pleasantly surprised. Not using the trans brake, we came out from an idle- it ran an 11.68 at 109MPH. We had to shut her off around 50 feet from the end because we were in the rev limiter at 6200 which is why the low trap speed. Not wanting to go higher with the stock valve springs, we will change those next. We installed the Crane Cams valve spring kit for the LT1. This will raise the seat pressure to 125. The stock rocker arms will not fit these dual springs, so we installed a set of Comp Cams magnum rocker arms with the 1.6 ratio. We put her back on the dyno and it made 341 horse at 4500 and started to fall off at 5000. Much more power down low, now we have to figure out what happened up top. We ordered an LT4 Knock Module. The LT4's had to go with a different knock module because their roller rocker arms made more noise and the knock sensors would pick up the noise and retard the timing. While waiting for the knock module, we took the car back to Muncie Dragway. The car ran 12.20's at 111 when shifting at 5800rpm. You could definately feel it lay down at 5000 so we lowered the shift point to 5400rpm. The car then went a12.04 at 112. We waited another 45 minutes for some cool down and made one last past. It then went 11.995 at 113. Finally in the elevens. The best 60ft time was 1.70. The slicks hooked best at 14psi with the shocks set at 1 on all four corners. Lessons learned from the last outing. The dyno doesn't lie. This thing was dead above 5000. Wednesday night is the wrong time to go to Muncie, we found very few people hooking. Too many cars with street tires leaving hard rubber on the starting line. It's time to install BMR lower controll arm relocation brackets. You can move the lower control mount position down either two or three inches. We will start at two inches lower. BMR says that most people will end up at 3. We need to get that 60 foot time down!! The relocation brackets are on, the knock module is replaced. We will be back on the dyno soon with some updates. By the way, we installed the Weld Pro Stars up-front with Mickey Thompson sportsman front runners. They measure 26 X 7.5. Another trip to Muncie- we haven't had much time so we skipped the dyno and on 30 June went back to Muncie Dragway. We started where we left off and set all four shocks at 1, put 7.5 lbs in the right rear air bag, and set the tire pressure to 14 psi. The rear of the lower arms were mounted two inches lower. Here on results from the three passes we made. On the third pass we raised the air pressure in the air bag to 10.5 and lowered the slick pressure to 13.5. We also didn't use the tranny brake but flashed the RPM starting at 2000.
Chassis Settings- we have made many passes with the lower controls in each position and found that the middle hole, 2 inches lower, hooked the best and made the quickest times. The bottom hole slowed the car almost a tenth in the 1/8th mile. The QA1's worked the best set at 1 all the way around, rear tire pressure at 13.5, and the right air bag at10.5psi. With these settings, the car has made many 1.58 -1.60 sixty foot times. The quickest pass so far was an 11.58 at 113mph. This was in a bracket race and had dialed an 11.65. The low trap speed is from lifting at the big end. Should have stayed in it to see what it would have run!! We will have some track pics soon. Wow!!! We put in a can of Torco's "Accelerator" race fuel additive and gained almost 3 mph! One can mixed with 10 gallons comes out to 104 octane. We ran this stuff on two differant days with the same results. Another trip to Muncie Dragway- 11.347 @ 118.71 mph with a 1.563 sixty foot
26 Oct 05 1st time out for the year!!! We changed the gas and installed new plugs. Here are the times for the night. Another new best- 11.314@ 118.24 mph with a 1.543 sixty foot
As you can see, the car's mph is very consistent. The et is all dependent on the 60ft time. Since we haven't had it on the dyno since changing the valve springs and adding Torco's "Accelerator", we decide to give her a couple of passes on the Mustang dynomometer. Two passes netted 367.1 HP/368.9 HP and 369.8 Ft-lbs of torque/373.8 Ft-lbs of torque respectively. With half a tank of fuel the car weighed in at 3507 with rear % being 43.7. 
6/23/06
Klotz Oil Company wanted us to conduct a test for them, using their synthetic oil. We figured this LT1 Formula would be the perfect vehicle to us, since it is so consistant. The car had Pennzoil 5w30 conventional motor oil in it, and we did several dyno pulls to get a baseline. We then immediately drained the oil and switched it to Klotz 10w30 synthetic, and the car picked up an additional 10 rwhp!!! This car has never made this much rwhp! below is the dyno graph. 
http://lsx.streetfire.net/video/89b2f58a-ae2c-42e5-b799-98a4011bec07.htm
After going as fast as we could with the stock engine w/procharger, time to shed some weight. (We did have new valve springs and rocker arms, intake has never been off)
Interesting...weighed the car before I took it apart. This thing weighs 3456 with out gas in it. I wished we would have weighed it before the 12 bolt, T400, and the procharger! That is 3456 with all the BS accessories...4 floor mats and all. The only lightening parts are BMR K-member and A-arms. Weighed the old front brakes, had the powerstop rotors. The complete set up per side was 39lbs. The new strange are 18lbs per side. Saving 21 lbs per side and that is not including what I am cutting off the spindle. Replaced stock balancer with an ATI balancer(PN 917270), they recommended the steel shell for supercharged applications. This added 1.8 lbs. Replaced the K-Member with a new one from BMR that is set up for a manual rack, this added 1.72 lbs. I think I'm going the wrong way here. I talked to tech rep from Weld Racing, the Magnum PRO 1 piece 3.5" wheel only weighs 7.5 lbs. Combined with MT ET fronts you get a total tire/wheel weight of 20.5 lbs. My current 5.5" Weld XPs with MT Sportsman front runners weigh 32.6 lbs. I will save approximately 24 lbs. just in front wheels/tires. Guess what, my XPs from the front are now for sale! Emergency brake cables another -2.98 lbs. Getting closer to my 200 lb. reduction goal. Replaced BMR K-member with one for manual rack= +1.72 ATI Balancer vs stock= +1.8 Power steering system w/fluid= 32.3 New flaming river manual rack set up= 15.73 total savings in manual= -16.57 A/C compressor= -15.37 A/C bracket and idler pulley= -8.00 Accumulator and lines= -4.3 Condensor= -8.21 Washer bottle= -1.69 lbs. -8.23 when full (It was full when in car) Crash bar= -16.53 Front foam support w/clips= -3.28 ABS unit= -12.44 Cruise control= -3.01 Brake booster= -9.73 Replaced single adjustable QA1 struts with double adjustable QA1= +.29 Replaced 315 lb. QA1 springs with 300 lb. QA1 springs= +3.76 Strange front brakes= -40.9 Cut LH spindle= -3.83 Cut RH spindle= -3.69 Strange master cylinder vs stock= +1.97 Old rear brakes= 23.10 each Wilwood race brakes= 11.37 each Total savings in rear brakes= -23.46 Old intercooler tubing from 2nd intercooler up= 16.02 New style procharger tubing in aluminum= 8.31 Total savings in intercooler set up= -7.71 Eaton posi and carrier bearings= 24.995 Moser aluminum spool and carrier bearings= 6.56 Total savings going to spool= -18.44 Emergency brake cables= -2.98 Changing from Weld XP's to standard Weld Pro Star's= -10.90 Total reduction= -208.04 lbs. Just a side note, I saved 5.00 lbs. on each rear rotor alone. That is alot of rotating mass! I am also going to delete all the emergency brake equipment and I am sure the aluminum spool is going to save alot. This reduction total also doesn't include the front wheels and tires I will be getting, another -24 or so. I ordered some aluminum intercooler tubing to replace some of ATI's steel, that will be weighed when done. 
Saved 3.83 on the left side. I sent the spindles to Jet Hot for coating, I'll get some pics of the finished front brake set up when done. With some new upper a-arms from BMR, this front end will look new again. I had to order a different hat for the rear Wilwood brakes, the 12 bolt kit from Moser had a 2.81 offset and these f-bodys have a 2.66. I'll also get pics of these when done. She is coming together and the engine should be running again this weekend. I would like to thank Josh at Procharger for sending some new tubing for my intercooler set up, changing things around to ATI's new piping. Ultimate goal is in the 10s with this set up. I'll be happy to pull the engine to go faster then. 
Re-routed the piping to how ATI does it now, changed from having two coming up from bottom to a single. Makes for a much cleaner install. 
Pics of relocated alternator
Started with SJM's relocation bracket then made all the spacers in aluminum. Replaced all the hardware with stainless, I would say it looks pretty good! Sorry about the rusty header bolts, they need to go stainless as well!!
Got the new brakes installed. The spindles look good in Jet Hot sterling. Thanks to Lee at BMR for setting me up with new upper A-arms. BMR has made some changes from their first production runs like I had before and they also now have zurk fittings. The brakes line are not run yet but I did pick up a kit from RJ Race Cars to plumb the whole car in stainless with all the fittings for $200. 
The rear brakes are on. The original offset was not right and Mark at Wilwood was great on doing a couple of swaps to get the offset dead on. Wilwood does not carry a dynalite drag rear race kit for these F-bodys but we now have the part numbers to make it a bolt on- I didn't even need to space the calipers. Here are the numbers: Brake kit 140-0263 for 12 bolt chevy with stock c-clip Hat kit 170-0357 for old style mopar/dana When you order rear brakes you can have them swap the hats out when you order. The front end is back on, had to move the supercharger pipes a little to clear the front turn signal but it now all fits. Getting closer!! The front seems really sturdy without the foam support, we'll see at 120 mph. Just pulled the rear brakes back off to put a spool in it, curious to see what I loose from that! Also, removing the emergency brake cables...I'll weigh them also. 
Went to aluminum spool and lost another 18.5 lbs. That is a lot of rotating mass!! 
If you guys think you are the only ones that have problems with aftermarket items not being quite right, you are not alone!! I went ahead and got a set of Weld Prostar 3.5" for the front with MT sportsman tires so I could run in True Street classes. I thought I would see how the rims fit and noticed that the studs are about 1/2" too short. Strange sells the brakes with 2 1/2 studs instead of 3". Now why would they do that?? So the longer studs are on order. And I actually have to pull the hubs back apart to get them in! New studs are installed...getting closer. So on to something else. I thought I would finish the rear end today and got the spool installed. Went to put the axles in and they don't go all the way in! Moser didn't cut the splines far enough down the tube and the spool bottoms out on the spline with about 3/16" of the bearing still hanging out. Moser was great for re-splining the axles while I waited!! After being apart for a year finally got the car done! Installed the brake line kit from RJ Race Cars, this manual brake set up feels pretty good. Thomson's in Columbia City did the front end alignment and I went ahead and mounted some new Mickey Thompson ET Street's. The old set had 55 passes on them and just felt hard. It's been 3 years since I raced this thing so it was cheap insurance to put new slicks on it. Installed an Art Morrison travel limiter kit and set it at 3" for now. Weighed the car again after all done. Down to 3241 from 3456, 215lb reduction! 45lbs or so was from rearend components such as spool, emergency brake cables, and rear brakes. With 170lbs removed from the front this thing should hook!! :) 1 Oct 2008 BACK TO THE TRACK! Out of seven passes, the last three were the best. Front shock settings were rebound-1, compression-8, and ended up putting the travel limiters at 4". I started with the rebound at 5 and worked down to 1. The sixty foot time kept getting better but the slicks were also breaking in, not sure what made the most difference. As far as the rear suspension goes, shocks were set at 1 and 10.5 lbs in the right rear air bag. Air pressure in the slicks was 13.5 the whole night. I tried foot braking the car leaving at 2000rpm and flashing it up but couldn't get it to hook, so I ended up using the tranny brake. In the past foot braking gave me a better sixty foot but the tranny brake worked out better tonight. I think I'm to the point where I just need to use the tranny brake. 1 Oct 08 1st time out since 2005!!! Another new best- 11.099@ 120.80 mph with a 1.497 sixty foot. Best 60 foot was 1.482 and best mph was 121.09.
Video from the night!! http://lsx.streetfire.net/video/5de5355f-8473-4d2b-a0ef-9b2f017a2b17.htm 22 Oct 08 Another new best- 10.994 @ 121.49 mph with a 1.513 sixty foot. Finally in the tens. The DA was great, started at around 308ft and got down to -435. Had trouble getting traction with the extra power and cold track. My next thought is to try the Mickey Thompson drag radials from Bob's car, they seem to hook no matter what the track is doing and should give me a little more mph. I will keep you posted!!
29 Oct 08 Another new best- 10.914 @ 121.90 mph with a 1.452 sixty foot. Muncie prepped the track really well for the season closer, and the car responded. The DA was also great, started at +300 and when I made the last pass it was -300. Check out the video from the night!! http://lsx.streetfire.net/video/9a440888-541b-40bf-a2cb-9b45001f56d2.htm
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This was good for a 13.80 at 101 in the quarter. When I installed the Grannetelli MAF, we lost a solid 9 horse at the wheels. I could have bought a set of tires for that!!
QA1 adjustable shocks all the way around, BMR k-member, BMR upper and lower a-arms, QA1 coil over springs up front, BMR boxed sub-frame connectors, and a BMR extreme duty strut tower brace. The roll cage will be figured out once the car runs again.
10 bungs will be welded to the bottom. 
intercoolers. With the extra air, 50mm Holley injectors will be added. Ed Wright is going to do the programming. I think next year we will go with one of FAST systems.
